So im building a 350

[Kentactic]

I got a wild hair up my ass to build me a 350 for nitrous. I have no car to put it in yet. First im going to build the motor, then ill find the car to put it in. It will be a drag strip specific car. Goal is 600hp. It willl be many months of checks to complete this project but it should be fun.

So first things first i needed to clean up my little one car garage, hang some lights, and build me a work bench.



Then i needed a block to start the build. Its a 68'-76' "010" 4 Bolt main block.



Right now the blocks at the machinist.

Stay tuned....

[gapatriot]

600hp at the wheels or flywheel? pump gas or 100 octane? 600hp is a lot of power man!! have you ever actually driven anything with that much power? Im not picking on im just saying shit can get crazy fast. The highest hp car I ever drove was 475 to 500 and that fucking car was scary. What trans do you plan to run? also what rear end?

[Kentactic]

600hp at the wheels or flywheel? pump gas or 100 octane? 600hp is a lot of power man!! have you ever actually driven anything with that much power? Im not picking on im just saying shit can get crazy fast. The highest hp car I ever drove was 475 to 500 and that fucking car was scary. What trans do you plan to run? also what rear end?

600hp on the motor. May or may not run it on 110. Ive driven nitrous cars on street tires before so i understand what squirly is. On slicks on a treated track it will be a bit more tame. Im not even near set on gearing or trans. Im considering a turbo 400 though. The car i use will affect my decision. The car will run low 11's-high 10's at best with that power in as light a car as i plan to use.

[gapatriot]

I would go power glide if its a track slut, and a cut down ford 9inch rear end. as far as body chevy II's are the old stand by around here. I always wanted to get a geo metro and drop a small block in it. Great power to weight ratio.

[Kentactic]

I would go power glide if its a track slut, and a cut down ford 9inch rear end. as far as body chevy II's are the old stand by around here. I always wanted to get a geo metro and drop a small block in it. Great power to weight ratio.

Ya i wouldnt mind a Chevy II. Cost and availability will determine what car i end up with. I dont really care what the car is. Aslong as it works. A geo metro would twist bad with 600hp in it and launch pretty poorly as a result. What ever i pick will have a full frame and already be a RWD that can fit a 350 motor and trans. Im not looking to fab a tunnel and crap. Im fine with making motor and trans mounting locations though.

[mountainredneck2051]

i still say a ex police interceptor (crown vic) is the way to go, its got so much going for it

[JohnyMac]

Although I know little of what you gents are speaking too, I am looking forward to read how this thread develops.

Good luck Ken!  [URL=http://www.smileyvault.co

[Kentactic]

Although I know little of what you gents are speaking too, I am looking forward to read how this thread develops.

Good luck Ken! 

Thanks JM

[STRAITJACKET]

 Good luck Ken, I drag raced NHRA Super Gas Class for about seven years. I had a 69 Camaro, she put out 820 horse and around 640 ft lbs of torque. It was a fun ride until I rolled it four times at 150mph. Its a lot of fun but if you have racing in your blood its very addicting, I had to walk away from it.
   If you have any questions during your build feel free to give me a yell.


 Heres some pics.

[thatGuy]

That won't buff out?

[gapatriot]

I would go power glide if its a track slut, and a cut down ford 9inch rear end. as far as body chevy II's are the old stand by around here. I always wanted to get a geo metro and drop a small block in it. Great power to weight ratio.

Ya i wouldnt mind a Chevy II. Cost and availability will determine what car i end up with. I dont really care what the car is. Aslong as it works. A geo metro would twist bad with 600hp in it and launch pretty poorly as a result. What ever i pick will have a full frame and already be a RWD that can fit a 350 motor and trans. Im not looking to fab a tunnel and crap. Im fine with making motor and trans mounting locations though.

Twist? The cage would help it a lot! As you can see from straight's post a good cage is a must.

[Kentactic]

I would go power glide if its a track slut, and a cut down ford 9inch rear end. as far as body chevy II's are the old stand by around here. I always wanted to get a geo metro and drop a small block in it. Great power to weight ratio.

Ya i wouldnt mind a Chevy II. Cost and availability will determine what car i end up with. I dont really care what the car is. Aslong as it works. A geo metro would twist bad with 600hp in it and launch pretty poorly as a result. What ever i pick will have a full frame and already be a RWD that can fit a 350 motor and trans. Im not looking to fab a tunnel and crap. Im fine with making motor and trans mounting locations though.

Twist? The cage would help it a lot! As you can see from straight's post a good cage is a must.

Im pretty sure aslong as i run 11.50 or slower i can avoid the cage. Plus i have a local 1/8 mile that i might get more laps on. Adding a cage to a cardboard box might make it stronger but its still a cage attached to a cardboard box.

[Kentactic]

@ StraitJacket, Pretty cool camaro dude. Racing is deffinatly in my blood. Ill deffinatly hit you up with any problems i may encounter.

[Kentactic]

My buddy gave me some Erson Roller rockers i had to clean up. A couple need work but they should save me some bucks.



A couple hours and a wire brush took them from this to this.

[RS762]

That won't buff out?

  [URL=http://www.smileyvault.co

Not going to lie, i just laughed REALLY hard.

[STRAITJACKET]

That won't buff out?

Not going to lie, i just laughed REALLY hard.

Yeah that was pretty good. Theres a long story behind that. Just glad the only thing I got out of it was a boxer fracture in my left hand.

Im sure the rules have changed a bit since I was driving. They can get pretty harry with all the safety requirements. It used to be 12.99 to 10.99 full body cars required a roll bar anything faster than that required a cage. This might help NHRA Rule Book

[thatGuy]

If all you got was a Saturday Night Special then you were very lucky buddy!

Ken, put a roll cage in the fucking thing ok? No point dying on the track and it will stiffen the shit out of the car.

[Kentactic]

If all you got was a Saturday Night Special then you were very lucky buddy!

Ken, put a roll cage in the fucking thing ok? No point dying on the track and it will stiffen the shit out of the car.

Im the first guy to not want to die believe me lol.

[thatGuy]

I got all excited about the block and forgot to tell you how nice that bench looks buddy. Here I am getting all passionate about safety and you don't even have a crank yet!

You're on the right track though, you can focus on putting together that engine without the distraction of having a body around. Keep at it.

[gapatriot]

If it were mine, I would punch it 30 over and drop a 400 crank it to bring you up to 383. Cubic inches = torque better for the hole shot. plus you gotta get a crank rods and pistons anyway why not? A set of the old double hump heads with a good port and polish job and over sized valves, let her breath. since your going to be running 110 go 10:1 compression and slap a blower on it, then a good cam. oh and balance and blue print. should put you at your goal with out having to juice it. More costly maybe but in the long run it will probably save you some money on burnt valves, rings, pistons if something goes wrong and combustion temps get too high. Granted im an import guy 4g63's and sr20's all day, push rods make me laugh. But there is something to be said about american iron.

[Kentactic]

If it were mine, I would punch it 30 over and drop a 400 crank it to bring you up to 383. Cubic inches = torque better for the hole shot. plus you gotta get a crank rods and pistons anyway why not? A set of the old double hump heads with a good port and polish job and over sized valves, let her breath. since your going to be running 110 go 10:1 compression and slap a blower on it, then a good cam. oh and balance and blue print. should put you at your goal with out having to juice it. More costly maybe but in the long run it will probably save you some money on burnt valves, rings, pistons if something goes wrong and combustion temps get too high. Granted im an import guy 4g63's and sr20's all day, push rods make me laugh. But there is something to be said about american iron.

Ya i was thinking of going 383 for the free extra cubes. Since im running 6" rods it should keep piston speed down. As far as heads im going aftermarket. Camel humps are ok but they have been out dated for many years they just cant flow like a new head. you could have them port and polish in hopes of keeping up but it will be more expensive then aftermarket heads when your done.

[Kentactic]

So i got the Rotating assembly, oil pan, pump, and dip stick. Im going all motor 383. Couple goody pics.

[STRAITJACKET]

Nice Ken, I'm starting to salivate. I'm going to have to stay away from this thread, your gonna have me wanting to build another car. [URL=http://www.smileyvault.co

[Kentactic]

Nice Ken, I'm starting to salivate. I'm going to have to stay away from this thread, your gonna have me wanting to build another car.

Lol ya i couldnt even watch the speed channel for years because it was torture. Now i dont care. If the SHTF atleast i can remember some good times drag racing and working on the car with friends. It almost feels like a race against the clock to get the car done before its all over.