Cache help.....again.

[Reaver]

Anyone ever turn a 55 gallon food grade plastic drum into some sort of cache?

Having issues with sealing and I'm running out of idea's.

Firearms, ammo, clothes and a bit of chow will be the contents.

[Reaver]

Never done one that big, smaller ones might be better because if the seal is ruined (or it is discovered) you only lose some of the supply instead of all.  I would put food items separate, as that is what animals find and dig up.

If that is all you have, you could first line it with two drum liners before replacing the lid.  In order to repair a saw cutting off the lid, using either epoxy or silicone caulk to reseal the cut .  If it is buried deep, or expect someone might walk/drive over it, you might want to put a small sheet of plywood  larger than the lid over the top to help prevent a cave-in.  Don't forget to put a tool (small saw, screwdriver, whatever is necessary) on the lid to enable you to re-open the contents, in the event you need your cache contents and only have the clothing on your back.

You also probably know this, but a liberal sprinkling of nails/wire/metal scraps in the general area will frustrate anyone with a metal detector.  I have a good metal detector, but I doubt I could pick up a rifle 3-4ft below the surface if you place it in the bottom of the drum.

Just thoughts.

Walker

Hell yeah. thanks brother.

I was thinking about that actually. Where it will be isn't really anywhere anyone would really want to go. Much less carry a metal detector. The food contents would be like MRE's and stuff like that, this way if the seal is broken it won't ruin the chow. Most likely the barrel will be buried on its side as well. Reinforcing it that way, but increasing service area. A few feet down should do just fine. Biggest problem is going to be getting it out there lol

[crudos]

Hell yeah. thanks brother.

I was thinking about that actually. Where it will be isn't really anywhere anyone would really want to go. Much less carry a metal detector. The food contents would be like MRE's and stuff like that, this way if the seal is broken it won't ruin the chow. Most likely the barrel will be buried on its side as well. Reinforcing it that way, but increasing service area. A few feet down should do just fine. Biggest problem is going to be getting it out there lol

You could always bury the tools to extract the barrel nearby, shovel, pry bar, etc. Could you line the inside of the barrel with like an industrial grade plastic bag, and heat seal the opening to keep things dry in case the barrel is compromised? Just some thoughts.

[JohnyMac]

I typically use 55 gallon plastic drums that have a removable lid. The lid is kept on the barrel by a big metal hoop (I do not have the technical name handy).

Thinking back to old Mr. L&L days. He used drums with the above mentioned hoop. He put his food in the drum which was sealed in Mylar bags. When ready to close he ran a bead of silicone around the lip of the rim then put on the lid and torque down the hoop. Never tried it though.

When burying the drum put a big piece of rock (Blue stone, slate, etc) on top before you refill. I read somewhere that if you use the aforementioned rock, you only need an additional foot of soil on top.

I like Walkers I idea of seeding the soil with nails and another metal bits and pieces.

On another note: I great "cache safe" is PVC piping. You can buy it in 2", 4", 6" etc...All of the way p to 24". Use PVC cement to seal a plug in at one end. Put in the pipe stuff you want too (PLUS a few O2 absorbers) and seal up the other end with PVC cement and a plug.

If your local Home Depot does not have...Lets say a 12" PVC pipe...Go to your local plumbing supply store (Look up in the Yellow Pages).

Burying a long tube might be easier that a 55 gallon drum.

Enjoy

[crudos]

On another note: I great "cache safe" is PVC piping. You can buy it in 2", 4", 6" etc...All of the way p to 24". Use PVC cement to seal a plug in at one end. Put in the pipe stuff you want too (PLUS a few O2 absorbers) and seal up the other end with PVC cement and a plug.

So how do break-in to the tube when the need arises? That would be a tough nut to crack without the right tools handy.

[special-k]

On another note: I great "cache safe" is PVC piping. You can buy it in 2", 4", 6" etc...All of the way p to 24". Use PVC cement to seal a plug in at one end. Put in the pipe stuff you want too (PLUS a few O2 absorbers) and seal up the other end with PVC cement and a plug.

So how do break-in to the tube when the need arises? That would be a tough nut to crack without the right tools handy.

Actually.... you cement on a cap at one end, then cement on a threaded collar and screw in a threaded plug (teflon tape optional)) at the other end.  This way, the square protrusion from the plug can be turned with either a large adjustable wrench, large channel locking pliers, large pipe wrench, or the actual PVC tool that is made for turning it.

[JohnyMac]

Your solution is GREAT Special-K.

Or you can bury with the cache safe a $10- Chinese hack saw. Not that I have ever done this mind you. 

[special-k]

Your solution is GREAT Special-K.

Or you can bury with the cache safe a $10- Chinese hack saw. Not that I have ever done this mind you. 

I hear you JMac... But I can honestly say I've never had a $10 chinese hacksaw that actually worked for more than a few strokes, literally... not even long enough to cut through a single piece of pvc.  Personally, I wouldn't depend on the "$10" solution. 

Plus I really like the idea of being able to re-use the cache... maybe I don't need or want to be carrying or risk being caught with everything that's in the cache. 

But hey, to each his own.

[Kentactic]

Another safer way if you need to cut PVC and are concerned about the contents being damaged by a saw is a PVC cable cutter. Its just a steel cable with handles on each end. You start moving it back and fourth and the cable creates friction and actually cuts quite fast. It would cut through an MRE but it wont hurt a rifle much. Youll feel resistance right away and know to adjust the contents.

[Reaver]

I already have .......well have figured out the PVC way. This 55 gallon drum is more of a large portion of supplies kind of like a build a home kit.

An axe, crowbar, food,  tent for temporary home until better constructed things are built force protection. Stuff like that.

See what I'm going for? Shit man I hate being awake. Sometimes I wish I would have just stayed asleep. Damn you lock and load.!!!

[thatGuy]

I really like the idea of silicone calking, it stays flexable but don't count on it to glue the lid closed.

I always use anti-seize on pvc threads. Those SOBs will seize up in a heartbeat... you could still smash it open with a rock.

You might want to test run that barrel on it's side.. might not be strong enough with one end missing, not saying just saying.

If you can get CS powder throw some in the back fill, nothing will dig though it

[Outonowhere]

All great ideas and I agree with TG on the barrel on its side.  If it is not designed to rest in that position for a period of time you may end up with integrity issues with the lid as well as a weakening of the sides.  And if you really wanted to get into it you could still do the whole plywood trick and maybe add some appropriately sized 2x4s along the barrel to help protect it further.  But that's just me thinking out loud.

[thatGuy]

I've seen them do that in people's bodies...

[Outonowhere]

I've seen them do that in people's bodies...

So wrong....... and so true!