Home made gun oil.

[hjmoosejaw]

There is an article in the May/June issue of "Petersen's RifleShooter " for DIY gun oil for ARs (Anything else also, Right down to your plow blades). I guess a lot of sniper types use it. The recipe varies a little from person to person. But basically it's:

1 Qt. Transmission fluid

1 Qt. 10W30

1 Pt. Marvel Mystery oil

1 Pt. STP oil treatment

1 small bottle of Hoppes #9

Shake it all up in a gallon jug. Supposed to work like a charm!

[crudos]

Had to look-up Marvel Mystery oil. Thanks for the recipe.

[hjmoosejaw]

Had to look-up Marvel Mystery oil. Thanks for the recipe.

Yeah, I hadn't either, but a guy at work said you can find it at all the hardwares or whatever.  He gave me a little bottle. I haven't tried it yet. The one guy in the article that uses it is a chemical engineer. They said a lot of experts on Ars prefer it over store bought. They call it "red oil". 

[Reaver]

Ronsurplus has an awesome link on this subject. I have lost it some how. Probably when my comp crashed.

Someone should shoot him an invite to this thread he would love to chime in.

[special-k]

I posted a similar recipe a while back:  Equal parts motor oil, transmission fluid, and kerosene.

Someone here said there was a problem with it because it was too thick and could cause your firing pin to gum up.  Maybe this new recipe has resolved that problem.....Does anyone here have real world experience with this new recipe?

[special-k]

Had to look-up Marvel Mystery oil. Thanks for the recipe.

I've used it before when starting and engine that had set up for years.  Poured some in the plug holes.  The only thing I remember about it was the noxious fumes.....I couldn't imagine putting it on something that I planned to carry on me all the time.   But maybe the other ingredients tone down the fumes.  If I remember correctly, the can had severe hazard warnings (more than the usual) about skin contact and breathing the fumes.

[special-k]

I love Frog Lube (tub) but it's so expensive.    The ingredients of Frog Lube are a secret BUT I'm pretty sure I know what's in it:
 
1. Hydrogenated palm and/or coconut oil. The hydrogenation serves as a preservative and a thickener by raising the melting temperature.  You could use non-hydrogenated but it will be thinner and the shelf life will shorten to months instead of years before rancidity occurs.  Refrigeration would extend shelf life in this case.
2. Undetermined amount of wintergreen oil (methyl salicylate.)  (Color, smell, preservative.)

I have not tried this recipe yet but I will on one of my throw away guns first.  These ingredients are pretty cheap compared to the cost of Frog Lube.  And they measure up to the claim that Frog Lube is relatively non-toxic and could be eaten.

[EJR914]

Hell yeah, great thread bro!   [URL=http://www.smileyvault.co

[hjmoosejaw]

Talking about the fumes. The one guy in the story did say something about the smell, although he thought the stuff worked great. He said that any other time he smelled that heated up transmission fluid, he had to pull off the side of the road. He said whenever he shot his AR, he kept stopping to look around for his Impala. LOL! 

[Grudgie]

Vaseline.

The creator of Vaseline was so confident in his product and its' uses that he ate a spoonfull of it every day.

[special-k]

[Grudgie]

And that's not all. Sir Robert Chesebrough, the inventor of vaseline, would demonstrate its' uses in public displays by inducing a chemical burn upon his skin and applying vaseline to the burn.

[v0dka]

did he also demonstrate it's ability to stretch pipes?

[tmsigg]

hey guys im an armorer in the navy and i would advise against that home made stuff and snipers certainly do not use it. tans fluid is actually hydraulic fluid and is not good under extremely high temps. regular motor oil has detergents in them and mystery oil is a contains penetrating ingredient that will actually strip the magnesium phosphate coating off you ar.  try tetra blue thats or another high quality teflon based lubricant and use very sparingly. your fiream should be mostly dry meaning you should put the oil on them get most of it off. this will prevent gas (that flows "by design" into the upper carrier group) from sticking to the bolt and gas rings. teflon based lubricants have properties that stay on the rifle.