Budget sniper rifle

[sledge]

Great post  doppleganger!

This is the only thing I didn't like. 

You want a stiff receiver, making a savage 110 sub par.

But then I'm pretty satisfied with my 110 other than it's too fricking loud with a muzzle brake on it.

[Reaver]

Yeah good post.

But the topic is " Budget Sniper Rifle "
For all that stuff we are not talking about thin budget here.


And from what it sounds your building a rifle that marine corp snipers use. I for one don't have a need for that.
The reason I haven't really jumped in to much on this thread is because EVERYONE here hasn't thought about it to realistically IMO.

For a perfect prepper/budget sniper rifle you should grab an AR15 and throw a bi pod and some glass on it. The follow up shots are a lot more important than sub MOA accuracy. Again IMO a prepper doesn't need a sub MOA rifle that can hit a quarter at 1KM a prepper needs something that takes the same ammo, same mags but has a little bit more range.  MAX 600 meters.  Anything past that and you should just keep eyes on and wait. No reason to engage something that you are not 100% sure about killing. You'll just give up your position [ not direct position but the knowledge to the bad guy(s) that someone with a rifle is that way ( give direction ) ] 

I hope I somewhat made sense.

RvR

[NOLA556]

Yeah good post.

But the topic is " Budget Sniper Rifle "
For all that stuff we are not talking about thin budget here.


And from what it sounds your building a rifle that marine corp snipers use. I for one don't have a need for that.
The reason I haven't really jumped in to much on this thread is because EVERYONE here hasn't thought about it to realistically IMO.

For a perfect prepper/budget sniper rifle you should grab an AR15 and throw a bi pod and some glass on it. The follow up shots are a lot more important than sub MOA accuracy. Again IMO a prepper doesn't need a sub MOA rifle that can hit a quarter at 1KM a prepper needs something that takes the same ammo, same mags but has a little bit more range.  MAX 600 meters.  Anything past that and you should just keep eyes on and wait. No reason to engage something that you are not 100% sure about killing. You'll just give up your position [ not direct position but the knowledge to the bad guy(s) that someone with a rifle is that way ( give direction ) ] 

I hope I somewhat made sense.

RvR

YES. +1

[Kentactic]

I have to weigh in on this.

Now, keep in mind that I don't buy into a lone sniper prepper/survivalist mentality. But I do know about building a rifle.

As a sside note, look up greybull precision. Ive worked with Adam for a long time. Their success comes from using a quality rifle, with great glass and their custom turret ranging system..

You want to start out with a good solid action. Remington 700's are popular because they are easy to blueprint. Meaning they are easy to turn on a lathe and remove as much out of tolerance material as possible.
You want a stiff receiver, making a savage 110 sub par. Your lugs should be smoked and lapped before a barrel is installed and you want your barrel headspaced correctly before it is installed.  No pull through reamers.
you want your barrel lapped and polished correctly.
you want a freefloating barrel with a .30 clearance minimum between the stock and the barrel.
You want length of pull and grip size customized for the shooter
You need to know what round you will be using in the rifle. No mixing and matching.
muzzle crown should be a 11 degree recessed crown
barrel contour should be a minimum of a #4 up to no contour.
scope mounts should never be quick disconnects.  A scope needs to stay on the rifle. If you take it off, automatically assume you will have to re-zero the weapon.
triggers should be set to the shooters preference using either a neutral or preferablly positive sear engagement. Never negative. No accutriggers. They move, adjustments are never standardized. One place youshould consider spending money on is a giessele trigger or a timney. They're worth themoney,if only to prevent the headaches.
My personal favorites are Winchester 70's, rem 700s, cz500, a cheaper alternative is a howa 1500. It's a clone of the 700. Older savages are good guns too. Just no spring adjusted triggers.
glass is a preference, just remember thatcheep glass has bad parallax problems and it will cause misses at distances outside of 400 yards. Leupolds are great, nikons are good for the price. You can spend a grip of money on glass.
Barrel manufacturers is a huge consideration. The better the barrel you buy, the better the end product will be.
you want barrel length and twist rate in consideration so you will know the proper barrel length

yeah thats the way to IDEALY do it... not the least acceptable....

And that greybull Turret system is a gimmick... any serious precision shooter wouldnt be caught dead with that silly thing on their scope. only way that turrets going to be reliable is if your hunting indoors where conditions are always the same. Everyone likes to cash in on ignorant hunters looking for a hunter proof (dummy proof) way to shoot far without knowing shit but in reality theres no replacement for knowing wtf your actually doing. Mil or MOA is the only way to go for shooting at extreme long distance... period.

Also i dont think i agree with you that quick release rings will all lose zero from being removed and then reinstalled. i have no experience with quick release rings hands on but i know many much more experienced guys then myself use them with no issues. let me add that even my non quick release Seekins rings can be removed from the base and reattached and still hold a zero. thats why they cost what they do, the tolerances are very tight. 

Also parallax can be an issue even on the top dollar scopes if your not exactly repeating the same cheek weld and the parallax is out of adjustment.

[1000meterstare]

Agreed.  My mosin 91/30 (even with custom gunsmithing and accurizing) is less than most "budget" sniper rifles.  My glass is 3 x 9 power with 40 relief.  I'm thinking of going to 4 x 16 glass to get me out a little farther.  It's usually a 1moa rifle with the ammo I shoot (match grade 182 fmj) on mediocre range days.  On good days it can actually do sub MOA. [URL=http://www.smileyvault.co   

[doppleganger]

As the addendum said at the beginning of my post mentioned, I don't buy into "sniper rifles". Just never have. I've always felt that opsec and being invisible are the most important aspects of staying alive. My family has chosen the ar platform, mostly because of our environment and expected usage. I did visit a friend out i40 east and could definately see the need for a thousand yard gun out there.

The rifle I described isn't a military grade sniper rifle. It is described as a gunsmith putting together a sub moa bench rifle for competition using basic techniques and building over the course of a few months a couple of hundred dollars at a time.

I think a great "budget sniper rifle" would be a druganov ... Ak platform/family, accurized-ish. Good round. Semi auto, with a Provence track record. Used to be you could find them for about 700, haven't looked for one in years though. Heard they're hard to find now.

Honestly speaking, the earliest "sniper" rifles were deer guns with glass. And our average 30-06 bolty is more powerful and more common than sniper rifles in

[sledge]

Honestly speaking, the earliest "sniper" rifles were deer guns with glass.

Yeah, that's me.  I'm a deer and hog sniper.  Although, I'm pretty bad ass at throwing rocks at annoying crows as well. 


You irritating, winged, black, taunting, evil thieves tremble in fear.  The rock chunker commeth.